Whilst dining out recently with friends, amongst chatterings over wine, an indulgent pasta dish was served, and when our waiter offered delicate truffle shavings to accompany the food, it sparked a colourful conversation about this sought-after ingredient and for once, I was in the know!
Wild truffles are a gourmet delicacy, cherished for their unique and complex flavour profile. The taste of truffles could be described as an intriguing interplay of earthy, musky, and nutty notes that can transform a dish from special, to delectable. Offering a deep, woodsy aroma that hints at the forest floors from which they are harvested – yes, forest floors – truffles will not grow without trees. But what makes them a delicacy and why are they so very desirable?
There are no huge nets to pull in hoards of truffle at a time, each truffle is foraged, they grow underground at the bases of trees and the only way to find them is by smell and although (apparently) it is possible for humans to hone in on truffles through aroma, (I’m not sure I belive that), it has historically been pigs that have for hunted them, however, dogs are now preferred to pigs because pigs love to eat truffles!
So as we tucked in to our delicious pasta, garnished undoubtedly with the fruits of a truffle dogs labour, I regaled the the time I was invited by one of Italy’s most revered purveyors of fine truffle, La Rustichella, to accompany them on a truffle hunt in the stunning wine (and seemingly truffle) region of Vezza d’Alba in Northern Italy.
Delighted by my dinner companions intrigue, I could barely wait to tell them I had actually been out with truffle dogs, visited the factory they were harvested at and taken a seat at the table of the ‘Grand Dames’ of Italian Truffle, Maria Brugnoli and her daughter Rita, to enjoy a ten course (truffle laced) tasting menu.
It all started with a short flight from the UK to Turin in Italy after which myself and my fellow truffle hunters were whisked away to spend the evening at the charming Hotel Malabaila ahead of an early start and following a quintessentially Italian breakfast, we were on the move. The scenery in this part of Italy is breathtaking. Vezza d’Alba, nestled in the heart of Italy’s Piedmont region, boasts a landscape that is both picturesque and serene. The area is characterised by gently rolling hills and meticulously maintained vineyards, which stretch as far as the eye can see. These vineyards are the birthplace of some of Italy’s finest wines including Barolo! Now I’m not a red wine drinker in the main, but I could be persuaded if it tastes as beautiful as its place of birth looks – a picture perfect Italian town with views to die for from its two castles.
Next stop is our truffle hunting destination and by this time the truffle mania is real! I was so excited (being a dog lover) to meet the canine heroes of this desirable delicacy and watch them do their thing, but first thing’s first – lunch!
It would be rude not to visit a winery when one is in such a prestigious wine producing region, so I was delighted when the minibus rolled into the grounds of Antica Cascina Di Roero.
At the heart of Roero – a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Antica Cascina dei Conti di Roero has been producing wines since 1950. Led today by Daniela and her husband Luigi, their quality winemaking started in 1970 with the foundation of the winery.
Lunch was a very Italian affair with meats and cheeses with baskets of freshly baked bread and of course plenty of wine! What more could one want – an excrutiatingly beautiful location with views of vineyards as far as the eye can see washed down with delectable wine and in the company of the owners who imparted some wonderful history – you can learn more about Antica Cascina Di Roero by visiting their website – I implore you to try their Roero Arneis DOCG Sru Riserva, with hints of honey and citrus, it is truly delicious.
As lunch is winding up I was delighted to welcome our truffle hunting hosts (two very Italian farmers who didn’t speak a word of English) and their trusted canine companions, Ayla and Masi, both leaping around in a frenzy of excitement. Also – very cute.
Now you might not be aware, but truffle hunting is hugely territorial and these dogs are not to be caught on anothers patch, so sticking with our guides like glue was the order of the day as we headed into the forest.
Under a heavy canopy of trees and in slightly fading light, our dogs headed off excitedly to sniff out the goods. It is so comical to see them stop dead at a sniffing spot and begin to dig furiously! Luckily we had a translator who imparted that Masi was partial to a little truffle herself so before she managed to snaffle herself a very expensive snack, she was bribed with Parmesan from the pocket of her owner and he retrieved the foraged truffle for us all to see. No wonder these dogs cost such a pretty penny, I’m not sure my Shihtzu will be a money maker in the Italian countryside anytime soon but Masi and Ayla are certainly worth their weight in, well, truffle!
As the sun set on the vineyards of Roero, my fellow hunters and I climbed aboard our bus and headed back to base. What a truly unforgettable experience. I will never ever eat another truffle without considering the amount of Parmesan it takes to find it…
So what happens to the truffles once they are collected?
It just so happens that the following day we were up bright and early for a flight to Rome. Yes, this trip just gets better and better! 50 minutes in the sky and we are touching down for the next part of this tantalising truffle adventure.
Sergio Brugnoli, founder of La Rustichella, married his wife Maria in 1976 and it was during their travels in America that they discovered interest and curiosity of foreigners for authentic Italian products.
In 1986, driven by the desire to produce something completely their own yet with a passion for ‘Made in Italy’, they founded La Rustichella.
“Starting with few means but full of ideas, Sergio began his journey into the world of truffles, quickly expanding the company beyond national borders. His dedication to this product is evident in every aspect of the business, from the sale of fresh truffles to the production of creams. Each product reflects a commitment to quality, tradition and innovation, through the exclusive use of natural ingredients and processes that preserve authenticity.
La Rustichella represents a unique combination of tradition and innovation in the culinary industry. Sergio has turned his dream into a business reality, creating a link between Italian culinary roots and the demands of global markets.”
Thanks to Brugnoli’s vision, the truffle became a symbol of sophistication and taste, conquering the palates of gastronomy enthusiasts everywhere including America, Asia and of course, the UK.
La Rustichella have a plethora of product lines – from jars of preserved sliced truffle to oils, creams, pate and even honey. All produced in their factory on the outskirts of Rome which we were lucky enough to visit. It was all rather surreal to be honest, the day before we were rambling through a forest digging up truffles with dogs and now we are being shown around a state of the art factory manufacturing numerous products with one thing in common.
After a whistlestop tour of the production lines and securing a jar or two of truffle treasure to take home, it was time for lunch at the La Rustichella’s own restaurant “Love Truffles” (right next door to the factory) and by this time I was literally salivating!
I love truffle, with anything, so ten courses did not faze me, the Italians have my heart when it comes to food with their long lunches and grazing style feasts. I am unable to list every dish as I was practising being present in the moment ( translation: did not have time to write things down as just wanted to eat it) but let me tell you, it was a truffle masterclass. From miniature melted cheese truffle dusted toasties to truffle topped Tiramisu and everything in between, this lunch was an unforgettable culinary adventure through the rolling hills and earthy forests of northern Italy. I have foraged for truffles, been to a truffle factory and feasted on them – in one day. And the best thing? We were joined by founder Maria Brugnoli herself and her daughter Rita who has taken the reins and is now at the helm of La Rustichella, what a day!
It was here my story over dinner crescendoed and my companions couldn’t possibly hide their envy at the fabulous experience I had imparted about the cradle of the shavings lightly sprinkled over our pasta that evening. Of course when I asked our server the origins of the truffle it was no surprise to find out it came from the very company that had hosted such a wonderful delve into the intricacies of forgaging and utilising one of the finest delicacies in the world.
So next time you are chowing down on truffle fries or diving into a decadent pasta or risotto – you should remember the journey it has taken to reach your plate. Also, if you’re not eating La Rustichella truffle are you even eating truffle at all?
Go and buy some immediately, tell them I sent you.
Words by Joanne Brook-Smith
LA RUSTICHELLA TRUFFLES
La Rustichella World Wide S.r.l.
Via Salaria, 290 – 00199 Roma
Headquarters: Via M. laconelli, 6 – 00030 San Cesareo (RM)
Ph: 06 958 8047 – Email: info@larustichella.com
