Semi-permanent makeup has come a long way since the 90’s. The days of heavily tattooed thick brows have been replaced by a new era of fine natural looking treatment results. Think microblading, shading, feathering and ombre for brows and 2023’s runaway hit for the perfect pout, Lip Blush. Semi-permanent make-up treatments now use incredible colour matched pigments, soft hair like strokes, manual and digital application techniques and boast long-lasting results, for those looking to enhance what they have and don’t want the fuss of daily top-ups.

So what’s next for the popular category? We’ve asked Karen Betts (award winning permanent make-up artist and CEO of Nouveau HD Beauty Group) for her 2024 trend predictions andhere’s what she told us (and they aren’t all treatments she would recommend!)

  1. Foundation

What is semi-permanent foundation?

Permanent foundation is where pigment is applied to the skin to create an even-toned base glow. It isn’t a replacement for regular makeup and concealer and foundation would still be required to create a flawless base. It is a relatively new trend, and there is still some debate about its safety and effectiveness.

What Is The Treatment Process?

To apply permanent foundation, a technician uses a small machine with micro needling needles to implant pigment into the skin. The pigment is implanted into the reticular layer of the dermis, which is the second layer of the skin and can take up to two hours to complete.

What Are The Key Considerations?
There are some potential risks involved with this treatment, including uneven pigmentation, potential scarring as the area is large that needs to be treated and difficulty removing the pigment if you no longer like it. It’s also not suitable for everyone, such as people with sensitive skin or certain medical conditions.

Is this a treatment you would recommend?

The trend is gaining traction on social media platforms, but it isn’t a treatment I would offer in my clinic. I personally don’t believe it is necessary as a flawless base can be achieved easily with traditional make-up application!

  1. Freckles

What Are Semi-Permanent Freckles?

PMU freckles are essentially ‘fake’ freckles created with pigments, tattooed into the dermal layer of the skin with a small needle. Makeup artists have often drawn freckles on using liners and kohl pencils and this is an extension of this but with longer lasting results.

What Is The Treatment Process?

Irregular shaped marks of varying sizes are tattooed into the skin to mimic the look of freckles. They are placed (generally) over the nose and cheekbone area where the sun would predominantly hit.

What Are The Key Considerations?

It is a tattoo on your face. It is not temporary. Even when faded there will be a residue remaining in the skin indefinitely. UV light and skin care products cause ‘forced fading’ and specific areas more traditionally suited to PMU (brows/eyes/lips) can be protected from these things in various ways. If there are freckles tattooed with pigment over the majority of the face, skincare products will have a huge effect on the fade factor. The results could therefore be salmon/peach/violet/grey residues over time. 

Is This A Treatment You Would Recommend?

From a futureproofing and safety point-of-view, absolutely not! Why not just create freckles with a fake tan using something like the Bronzie freckle stencil instead?! I always stress that with any PMU, think about what you want now vs what you want in 10 years’ time!

  1. French Girl Brows 

What Are French Girl Brows?

French girl brows are a natural, enhanced version of your own brows. Not too groomed to the point of looking unnatural, but enough to give the illusion of natural definition. French girl brows ought to be well-proportioned with natural fullness. Not too big, not too small, based on the size of the face, face shape and facial features and this look can be achieved beautifully with semi-permanent makeup treatments.

What Is The Treatment Process?

French Girl Brows are achieved using microblading and microshading techniques to give brows a new lease of life. This technique uses state of the art handheld tool to apply tiny precision hair dots to mimic the natural direction and length of your brows and fill spare areas. Colour matched pigment is applied over the brow area for subtle and natural results that lasts up to 18 months.

Is This A Treatment You Would Recommend?

Absolutely – this is what my bespoke brow builder treatment service offer clients. PMU should look natural and the French Girl Brow trend is completely natural. When we create a set of brows, they should suit the clients natural face shape and bone structure to enhance, lift and define. When a person has no other makeup on, the PMU should not look obvious. It should look like it is part of them and this tend encapsulates that.

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