Setouchi DMO is inviting visitors to explore a slice of Japan featured in Series 4 of BBC’s Race Across the World, but at a slightly more leisurely pace. The destination, formed by seven prefectures including Okayama, Kagawa and Hiroshima, has launched a series of 23 carefully curated and detailed itineraries – Setouchi Journeys – that last between 3 and 5 nights and are designed to encourage visitors to mindfully explore deeper into this destination that’s rich in centuries-old culture, icons of Japanese cuisine and island idylls.
Below is a sample of some of the experiences included in three of these routes that embrace slow travel and provide an opportunity to relax into traditional ways of life, integrate with locals, contemplate out-of-this-world landscapes, and explore this diverse region that’s known for its year-round good climate. These include a picture-perfect Castle in the Clouds, stylish island accommodation where, if guests can tear themselves away from the view, they can participate in planting and harvesting rice, and discovering sculptures dotted around Japan’s ‘lemon island’.
Be Inspired by Samurai Culture in Takahashi
As part of a four-day Samurai Castles, Gardens, Townscapes and Culture in Eastern Setouchi itinerary that traverses historic samurai lands, visitors will be inspired by the breathtaking scenery and mystical atmosphere.
Bitchu Matsuyama Castle is one of just twelve of Japan’s castles with an existing castle tower and is renowned for its architectural style, dating back to 1240. It’s also the highest of these twelve, standing 430 metres above sea-level on Mt. Gagyuzan. Thanks to its mountain-top location it was fiercely contested during the age of civil war (1467-1615) but now attracts attention for another reason. Between autumn and early spring it is often enveloped in a Sea of Clouds from the valley below. This phenomenon can be enjoyed on a visit to the castle or from an observation deck 1km away. The castle is presided over by Lord of the Castle, Sanjuro, a stray cat who made it his home in 2018, patrols daily and even has his own statue in the grounds. Bitchu Matsuyama Castle is open year-round (except 29th December to 3rd January) between 9am-5.30pm (April-Sept) and 9am-4.30pm (Oct-March). Admission: £2.50 (adults), £1 (children/students under 16).
The castle overlooks the Takahashi area where the mining town of Fukiya is the birthplace of Japan Red. The red bengara produced here has long been distributed across the country to colour crafts, temples and buildings, and has becomea hue synonymous with Japan. Visitors to Fukiya can enjoy a uniform red townscape of tiles and latticework that’s unique in Japan and is especially magical during the Fukiya Bengara Lantern Festival in September.
Love is in the Air from Artisans to Angels in Shodoshima
The four-day Art Islands, Dogo Onsen and the Shimanami Kaido itinerary includes a day on the enchanting island of Shodoshima, recognised by The Green Destinations Top 100 Stories initiative in 2021 and 2022 and a place to gear down and live local.
Discover the Angel Road, a 500-metre sandbar that appears at low tide connecting Shodoshima to three small islands. It’s recognised as one of Japan’s ‘Lovers Holy Lands’ thanks to the local legend that if you walk it holding hands an angel will grant your wish. The best view of Angel Road is from nearby Yakusoku no Oka (the Hill of Promise) where there’s also a Love Bell to ring. For tide times at Angel Road check with the Tourist Information Center (open 9am-5pm daily).
For those who love soy sauce, 25% of all traditional soy sauce producers are based on the island. Of these, the 150-year-old Yamaroku Soy Sauce’s artisanal offering is gaining global renown and their moromi brewing house, which is a Registered Tangible Cultural Property, is open for tastings and walk-in tours – just don’t eat natto (a fermented soybean dish) before a visit as it’s forbidden to bring natto into a soy sauce brewery. They still make all their soy sauce in 84 wooden ‘living’ cedar barrels that hold between 3,000 and 6,000 litres (just 1% of soy sauce produced in Japan is still made this way), are inoculated by opening the windows to let in natural yeasts carried on the breeze to begin the fermentation process, and are then left to age for 2 to 4 years to ensure their trademark high umami levels. Free 15-minute tours of Yamaroku Soy Sauce are available Mon-Sun, 9am-5pm.
A short ferry ride from Shodoshima is Teshima Island where UMITOTA offers private house-style accommodation to be enjoyed slowly, and in style. Fashion designer Akira Minagawa redesigned the home to retain the charm of an historic Japanese dwelling while maximising the wrap around views of the Seto Inland Sea and Teshima’s terraced rice fields. Guests are welcome to take part in rice planting and harvesting, gathering vegetables and cooking in the house’s large kitchen, or venturing out to explore local restaurants and flavours on the house bikes. UMITOTA sleeps up to 6 people. Rates start from £525 plus £58 per adult, including breakfast. Check in between 3pm – 6pm, check out 11am.
Ikuchijima, an Island of Lemons and Art
Also included in the four-day Art Islands, Dogo Onsen and the Shimanami Kaido itinerary is the peaceful island of Ikuchijima, one of the six islands linked by the scenic 70km Shimanami Kaido bike route.
Ikuchijima and neighbouring Takanejima island are part of the Island-Wide Art Museum, a collection of 17 open-air sculptures dotted around Setoda Town that are best discovered by bike or e-bike. The artists freely selected the locations and created pieces inspired by them, along themes like wind, sea and musical instruments. The island’s mild climate also makes it Japan’s top domestic producer of lemons with around 600 orchards covering the hilly slopes. Local specialities include Setoda lemon & Hakata salt gelato and Setoda lemon cake. The Island-Wide Art Museum is free to visit but one exhibit (The Stepping Stones) is inside an elementary school and requires an appointment.
A leisurely cycle away in Onomichi is BONAPOOL, a lodging spot with a combination of private rooms and dormitories, self-catering facilities and shared bathrooms. Formerly the Setoda swimming pool the space has been designed to be a ‘home for everyone’, providing visitors with an opportunity to meet and interact with local residents and other travellers in a welcoming communal space. Rooms at BONAPOOL start from £52 per night for a double room. Check in between 4pm-9pm, check out at 10am.
Also in Onomichi is Overview Coffee Setoda Roastery which opened in 2021 in a 140-year-old salt storehouse in response to Japan’s thriving coffee culture – Japan is now one of the largest coffee markets in the world. Founded on a mission to rethink the way coffee is grown through the lens of climate change they also operate the Overview Coffee Truck. The truck’s cabin is made from Japanese cedar scrap wood and it visits rural areas to help create awareness about environmental issues, spread the gospel of regenerative organic farming and, of course, serve great coffee! Open Weds-Sun, 1pm-5pm; Friday 1pm-11pm; closed Monday and Tuesday.
Mr. Akimoto from Setouchi DMO comments: ‘The Setouchi Region is full of fascinating and undiscovered experiences that showcase the breadth of Japanese culture, both historic and contemporary. Our goal with these journeys is not just to provide visitors to Japan with the tools to be confident expanding their travels beyond the classic tourist hubs, but also to shine a spotlight on specific points of interest that are unique to our region, have shaped globally-recognised icons of Japanese culture or are, quite simply, unexpected. These examples offer just a taste of the many adventures and experiences awaiting those who are willing to step off-the-beaten-track and immerse themselves our enchanting Setouchi region.’
The Setouchi Region is located in western Japan and surrounds Japan’s largest inland sea. To access the region from the UK there are direct flights to Tokyo from London Heathrow with British Airways and Japan Airlines, from there it is a 4.5 – 5 hour journey via Shinkansen to stations in the region including Shin-Kobe, Himeji, Okayama, Hiroshima and Shin-Yamaguchi.
For more information about these and other Setouchi Journeys visit www.setouchi.travel/en/plan-your-trip/itineraries/.
